Day 16, 15 Nov. Tangier, Morocco

0645 we were approaching the harbor and pulled straight in alongside a pier, starboard side to town and our side to the container pier and the sea. This is a treat because the weather is clear and we can see ships passing to and from the Med. The Spanish coast is visible.

 Total distance to date 4,574 nm.  Position 35 47.46N 005 47.82W

We grabbed our gear and dashed ashore and were directed to a mini-van with Nordeen as our driver. A nice young Moroccan man with little grasp of English so we switched to Spanish and were able to communicate that way. Then we met our guide, Lahlou, a 70 year old Moroccan of Berber heritage, born in the Kasbah. His English was spot on. Here the Berbers are the majority and Arabs are second most ethnic population. This is a very busy area for tourism and is a short ferry hop from Spain.

First we drove up the hill to get out and walk past the Mosque of Mohammad V and take in a view from the heights of the old city and the Kasbah. Up the Rif (“reef”) mountains driving past walled and gated compounds of wealthy foreigners (Saudis) and a home of the King of Morocco.

Julie and Lahlou

We made a stop at one gate and were given a walk through by a guard. Inside were several small houses, parades of ducks and geese, ostriches, guinea hens and gardens. We also got a look at the car collection. Saudi plates on the cars and the RV.

Next we drove up the coast to Cape Spartel to view the lighthouse.

 A short hop down the road and we stopped at an overlook. Behind us were apartments and townhouses in clusters, all new and bright. Ahead, after walking through a cluster of camels awaiting tourists, were cliffs over the beach and a view of the Caves of Hercules, which happened to be closed for renovation. (?) Here we could plainly see the meeting of the Ocean and the Sea on this North-west corner of Morocco. 

Caves of Hercules down this way

 Next we drove down to California and then were dropped off in a narrow street by an old stone gate and entered the Kasbah. Of course, I seized the opportunity and took Julie by the arm and gesturing to the gate with the other said “Come with me to the Kasbah!” No photo, no video but a brief souvenir in memory. With Lahlou's knowledge of the Kasbah and many of it's people, we spent four hours walking up and down narrow passageways, alleys, popping in and out of shops, taking in the sights, the sounds and especially the aromas of spices and foods. A few vendors tugged at us offering products and young boys were selling candy and gum. Most people looked at us with little or no interest, quite a few with a pleasant nod, a few with greetings and a very few with hostility. Often we would stop while Lahlou would greet a friend or relative and we would receive a warm greeting. 

One entrance to the Kasbah

tilt you head to see this

Lunch time arrived and we asked our guide to select a cafe or restaurant and to join us. He said he knew just the place and took a short walk to the Restaurant Kasbah. (Avenu Gzenaya Akba Francice Al Madina No 7) for a typical lunch in a clean atmosphere. The kitchen was clean too, as we checked it out. 4 courses were served on the second floor room; first of bread and dishes of olives, a pickled vegetable bowl and Harissa, a spicy hot sauce. Next came Pastella which looked like a bismark, or a donut without a hole. This contained a diced chicken, herb and spice mixture inside the cinnamon bun and sprinkled with powdered sugar on top and a drizzle of a cinnamon paste to finish it off. Mint tea was served. Then a piece of chicken baked with vegetables and couscous in an earthen pot. More mint tea. Finishing this off was fruit and Moroccan baklava. Then we walked it off, or tried to. 

A touching event occurred as we were heading out of the Kasbah. We stopped at another Mosque and our guide explained the brief worship process the occurs there when a woman worshiper came out, put on her shoes and walked past. She took a close look at us as she passed then she wheeled and came back to us and took Julie by the arm and spoke. We could not understand the language but the speaker sounded sincere. Our guide translated this as: (I paraphrase:) She says we all worship the same God be he Allah, God, Jehovah or any other name and in that we are all together and peace be upon us.

spice shop

looking into a mosque

Out of the Kasbah and back to the ship. That was only a couple of blocks of distance. This was a most pleasant experience thanks to the knowledge, expertise, trustworthiness and personality of our licensed guide, Lahlou. If any reader is planning to visit Tangier and would like to engage a private guide, comment to me and I will try to get contact information. We have experienced several private guides on our travels and this man is of the best.

We sailed at 1700. By 1805 we passed Gibraltar.